KHAO GALLI MIGRATIONS
Most old cities have a khao galli. Don’t they? Set in older parts, with glorious food served from tiny shops or glitzy laaris. Ahmedabad has not one, several khao gallis, creeping outwards as the city spreads. When I came to Ahmedabad more than 40 years ago, Khao galli was Khaas bazaar. Khass because it was stoutly non-veg in a city dominated by Gandhian vegetarians. It existed a couple hundred yards down from the old fort and its mata na mandir. Several decades later, a new branch of that Khaas bazaar has made itself permanent on the S G Highway’s Sarkhej stretch, offering economic meals, desi style and American magic Chicken style too. Khaas bazaar was an all day affair; its vegetarian counterpart in the chowk ruled only at night, crowds milling on the footpaths off the downed shutters of silversmiths and the stock exchange and others, for a selection of sandwiches topped with grated cheese and a dash of desi spice along with other desi vegetarian s...